Fashion Phoenix

This autumn Karachi-based fashion council Fashion Pakistan (FP) successfully managed to complete five years of organizing fashion weeks in the country. Apart from having the honour of putting together Pakistan’s first fashion week, Fashion Pakistan also enjoys many other credits: successive fashion weeks introduced many new designers, established several brands and helped boast and strengthen the business of fashion domestically. It has come a long way, and surely has a long a way to go.

Fashion Pakistan Week Autumn/Winter ’14 (FPWAW14) will go down in history for three salient features: Punctuality, brand Maheen bidding farewell to the ramp and introduction of Millennial Fashion.

Fashion Pakistan proved that 'fashionably late' is no longer in fashion

Punctuality, as we all know is a rarity in Pakistan. Not only, does it not feature on our national priority list, but also more often than not it is ridiculed. But Fashion Pakistan proved that ‘fashionably late’ is no longer in fashion. With heavy emphasis on starting shows on time FPW made sure they ran smoothly and without any delays or glitches. The council was successful (a huge achievement), and began a new tradition. Hopefully, in the coming years this tradition will be strengthened when the guests also comply.

The area outside the show venue at the Pearl Continental Marquee was pulsating with excitement and anticipation. Usual suspects of fashion, Karachi society and media were present, waiting for the doors to be open. Meanwhile the long red carpet was glittering with fashion and media celebrities as a battery of photographers clicked away. And as if there were not enough cameras, the cell phones duly obliged to play the role. I am also guilty of going on a clicking rampage but I had a reason: to bring you the glittering glimpses.

A whole brigade from the American Consulate also came to witness how we 'defy the Taliban'

Maheen Khan in her signature black ensemble looked every bit the elegant icon she is. Her classic style whispers that either you have it or don’t, and if you don’t please don’t try too hard. Similarly, if one day Sadaf Jalil, COO Diffusion & Pret Sana Safinaz, looked chic in trousers and top, then on the other she dazzled in a red silk drape dress. Shamaeel Ansari was conspicuous with her absence for the first two days. She had been busy with her end-of-season sale and the opening of her flagship store, House of Shamaeel. The third day, however, she graced the week. She looked as glorious as she did 24 years ago when I saw her for the first time. I am sure there’s a portrait rotting away somewhere in an attic. After a long time Sammy Rasheed made an appearance, and so did senior artist Mariam Saeedullah, looking grand in her silk kaftan. A whole brigade from the American Consulate also came to witness how we ‘defy the Taliban’. Spokesman Brian Amus wore a sherwani adorned with a brooch. Cultural Officer Priscilla Guzman introduced me to one of her colleagues who congratulated me for a fashion week in Pakistan. I replied nonchalantly: “Oh that’s how we defied and defeated the Taliban. Welcome to the world of fashion terrorism.”

On the final day, some unusual guests were also spotted in the crowd. Ghinwa Bhutto, Maliha Lodhi, Akhter Ispahani, former IG Saleem Vahidy and Sohail Osman Ali definitely stood out in the fashion crowd, and their presence surprised most people. But then that’s Maheen Khan’s magic as they were there to say adieu to the last show of her line, Maheen.

Deepak Perwani was running around shouting instructions.  Apart from his celebrity status, the man has earned authority through his passion and dedication to fashion, whereas Nauman Arfeen, secretary general FP, in his soft but firm manner supervised the entrance and management of the backstage. Sanam Chaudhry and Wardah Saleem, Chairman and CEO of FP respectively, multitasked without a crease of stress on their faces. I would have cracked under the pressure and biting everyone who came in my way. It takes a great deal of patience and strength to do what the council board does twice a year. Not an ordinary task. And surely not everyone can do it repeatedly. It is like going through childbirth. Nuscie Jamil and Omar Jamil from Latitude PR were hovering around, welcoming media and guests. This was the first time that Latitude PR was managing an event of this scale in Karachi although Nuscie is not new to the city, as everybody loves her here. It wouldn’t be an exaggeration if we call her the bridge between distant Karachi and Lahore.

Fareshteh Aslam, looking fresh and sparkling after a long time as she cast a supervisory eye on the Toni & Guy Hair Meets Wardrobe hospitality lounge, mingling with and welcoming select fashionistas, media and dignitaries and treating them with Sind Club goodies and colourful mocktails.

Frieha Altaf preened around in designerwear every day as she was managing the lounge where a bevy of young girls dressed in designer brands from head to toe giggled away, taking selfies, group selfies and photographing each other’s accessories and clothes. Screams of “Oh I am so fat”, “Noooooo, you’re not”, “No but I am”, “Oh I love your shoes/bag/outfit/lipstick” was all that could be heard from that corner. The whole scene seemed to be out of Bratz, Mean Girls, Glee or Beverley Hills 90210. Surprised, I asked a PR who they were. “Bloggers,” she replied with a straight face. And then for the next two days, I keenly observed them. They did nothing else but what they did the first day, and continued to do the same in and out of shows for the rest of the week.

Upon more ‘investigation’, I found out that many of those bloggers were flown in from Lahore and Islamabad; provided hospitality, designers clothes and accessories and complimentary hair and make-up from Nabila and Toni & Guy. In short pampered through and through. I don’t rule out the possibility that after such ‘hard work’ they were given complimentary massages and spa treatments to relax their ‘exhausted’ selves. Further investigations revealed that these days bloggers are the flavour of the month. Corporates and other clients all go out of their way to please bloggers with various gifts and pampering. And then it struck me that in Pakistani fashion media, there are two kinds of people: bloggers and sloggers.

I remember a conversation with Bryanboy at Fashion Forward in Dubai. One of the most popular and biggest fashion bloggers in the world commented on the difference between journalism and blogging. “I never wanted to be a fashion editor or journalist. It is difficult, very difficult.” And very honestly he put blogging in its right perspective. “It is very important to put a context and a story. Bloggers are not putting context and story. It is very easy to post a beautiful picture. Anybody can do that,” he announced. “We really need people who are experts and critique collections.” Maybe time for corporates, clients and PRs to listen to Bryanboy, if not me, and put some perspective and thought into the whole blogging phenomenon.

Nabila has a very serious, almost intimidating body language

Creative but controlled chaos ruled the backstage. Glare of make-up stations, whirring of hair-dryers, last minute preparations, make-up touches and gossip and conversations made the place alive and exciting. Arif Mehmood was silently documenting the fervor whereas Tapu Javeri was busy photographing and being photographed. Tapu is the only photographer who has achieved the status of a celebrity in the true sense of the word. Jaffer Hasan looked rather pleased getting yet another opportunity to indulge his obsession: documenting backstage scene in his signature way. Nabila was busy keeping a hawkish eye on her staff and casting a casual but aloof glance at the environment. I asked her to tickle the insignia of her N Gents with a rose and she kindly obliged. A very rare gesture, I must admit, as she just doesn’t like to be disturbed while working and has a very serious, almost intimidating body language. Safinaz Munir was going over last minute details with her team. They look like a corporate outfit that arrives, works and leaves. I felt bad for the male models who were either sitting in their small changing room or just standing around talking amongst themselves. Male models seem to be the poor relations of the fashion industry at their rich relatives’ glamourous events.

Launch of Millennial Fashion was the biggest achievement of FPW this time. Millennial is the buzzword used for people born in the ‘80s, ‘90s and the Noughties. In the old-fashioned lexicon they are still referred to as the youth or Generation Y that followed Generation X. So Millennials are the hottest, new phenomenon in the world at the moment. Approximately about 60 percent of the world population falls in that bracket. In Pakistan, too, about 60 percent of the population comprises of Millennials. Businesses are coming up with assimilation, marketing and branding strategies to cater to them. In fashion, too, this is the area where most energies and investments are spent. Realising the need of the time, FP has launched an initiative to organize a competition of new designers at every FPW. Held at a separate but connected event this year, five designers were given the platform to show capsule collections, five of whom will be given the opportunity to show a full collection at the next fashion week. The winner will be selected through voting by a select audience of fashion media, senior fashion designers and other fashion professionals including buyers, retailers, photographers and stylists.

The winner of the first Millennial Fashion was announced at the FPWAW14. And no one had any doubts as to who the winner would be. I had full plans to become Fashion’s Imran Khan and stage dharnas in case she wasn’t selected. But fairness ruled and Madiha Raza, a graduate of the Indus Valley School won.

I have never seen such a perfect collection by a new comer before. In fact, let alone a new comer, many who have spent years in fashion and claim to be big brands have not done such a marvelous job to date. Madiha’s theme was tropical birds. From visualization to execution, it did not leave anything, not even a single stitch, to be desired or an area for criticism. Refined aesthetic, stunning attention to details, fine tailoring, meticulous finish and the play of materials came together to make Madiha emerge as a winner among her peers and, in many cases, seniors. When she bowed in front of the grand dame of Pakistani fashion, Maheen Khan, in the finale, I immediately knew she had been under her wings. Maheen’s announcement on her Facebook brimming over with pride confirmed it later. Madiha will be presenting her first formal collection at Fashion Pakistan Week Spring/Summer ’15 (FPWSS15) which will be held from March 31 to April 3, 2015.

For me, Madiha Raza is the biggest reason to look forward to FPWSS15.

Maheen gracefully showed why she remains unparalleled and invincible

And then came the moment that no one in Pakistani fashion ever wanted to see. Maheen Khan sent the collection of her supremely elegant line, Maheen. For those who are not Millennials and are in their 40s and above, it was a rather sad, heavy occasion. She paid tribute to the city that was once glorious and known as the City of Lights. Yes, she dedicated her final show to Karachi. Pieces that we have seen, many glided down the ramp evoking images of an era that was elegant and glamorous. Silhouettes that accentuated womanly curves and made them sensuous, cut in bias, draped as if hued-mercury enveloping female forms; jewel-to-mute colours and God-like perfection in finish and details, Maheen gracefully showed why she remains unparalleled and invincible. If there’s any sartorial illustration of ‘Glamour and elegance of simplicity’, it is Maheen. I felt as if I had died and gone to heaven—my heaven where perfection, excellence and supreme taste rule.

But the good news is that this show was not Maheen Khan’s Swan song; she has many more melodies to sing, old and new ones. It was a farewell to public availability of her line Maheen as Maheen plans to stop showing it. She will continue with Gulabo, her pret line. Another good news is that she will exclusively continue to design Maheen but only for those select few who understand and appreciate her aesthetics in couture so that her aesthetic doesn’t get compromised by New Taste and market pressures.

But if anyone knows the woman, they know she doesn’t quit the game or rest on her laurels, she just moves on to bigger and better things to conquer. Next is Virsa, Maheen’s grand initiative to save our heritage.

From the platform of Virsa, Maheen has decided to take up the task of reviving the importance and elegance of hand-woven brocades and other fabric in pure silk

Owing to mindless consumerism, bad taste, price wars and fast fashion, the craft of handloom silks and brocades is dying fast. The rise in the demand of cheap, machine produced silks has led to the decline of pure, hand woven silk fabrics. Once thriving, vibrant Banaras Colony in Orangi – a Karachi neighbourhood named after the centre of weaving in the subcontinent and established by the migrant weavers from there—presents the picture of a ghost town with empty workshops, open shops and waiting shopkeepers. Children of weavers who mastered the art are not joining their family trade which ran in their past generations. Instead they are looking for jobs in other fields. From the platform of Virsa, Maheen has decided to take up the task of reviving the importance and elegance of hand-woven brocades and other fabric in pure silk. She will work on raising awareness about saving the centuries-old craft by highlighting its value in Pakistan and all over the world. Maheen plans to engage designers as well as consumers to achieve her goal.

Saving a dying art or craft and bringing it back into the mainstream is always a daunting, Herculean task, if not impossible. But nothing less is expected of Maheen who has been creating and nurturing fashion for 46 years in an anti-fashion society and remains passionate, relentless and victorious. Like always she is sure to win this war, too, to march on to others. Many remain to be fought and won.