Charms of the Neelum valley

Mubashar Naqvi has a recommendation for those looking to beat the August heat with a retreat to the mountains

Charms of the Neelum valley
This picturesque valley, named after the Neelum River which flows at the heart of the valley all the way from its source to its end, is a physical manifestation of Mother Teresa’s view that “Peace begins with a smile.” Despite having witnessed several decades of border tensions between Pakistani and Indian forces deployed at the Line of Control (LoC), that had severely restricted the mobility and outdoor activities of the local residents, the valley is smiling nowadays. It is welcoming the local, national and international tourists who seek an experience of its immense scenic beauty.

The hostilities between Pakistan and India have consisted of several horrific incidents which left thousands of innocent people – including women and children – dead, especially during episodes of Indian firing across the Line of Control. People of the valley still remember and praise Pakistan’s former ruler, General (retd.) Pervez Musharraf for taking significant steps to end one of the world’s most dangerous conflicts, with nuclear-armed rivals India and Pakistan agreeing to a ceasefire halting 14 years of cross-border gun battles in the disputed Kashmir region. Unfortunately, such agreements in the peace process have not been fully respected, and even recently there have been several incidents of hostile exchange with India – not only in the Neelum Valley but also in other sectors of the Line of Control.

And yet, with all its sufferings – including the infrastructural damage that occurred in the deadly earthquake of 2005 – the valley is welcoming a record number of tourists from all parts of Pakistan: with its open and smiling heart, stretched green wings and its crystal blue water, which regale visitors constantly from the time of their arrival up to their departure.
The Deputy Commissioner at Neelum, as a gesture to visitors, announced that the valley would observe a "rent-free week" from the 1st to the 7th of August 2017

Athmuqam is the District Headquarter of the Neelum Valley, administratively divided into two sub-divisions of Athmuqam and Sharda, each with two entrances – one being the Neelum Road via Muzaffarabad and the other by the Kaghan Jalkhad Road.

Before Partition in 1947, this region was known as Drawah. The Azad Jammu and Kashmir government, in 1956, held a cabinet meeting to rechristen the River Kishanganga as the River Neelum and the Drawah region as Neelum Valley. These new names were proposed to the cabinet by war veteran Syed Mohammad Amin. With the approval of the AJK Cabinet, the changes in name took place.

The valley is famous for its lush greenery, fir forests, sloping hills and waterfalls. Their almost magnetic attraction often forces tourists to extend their scheduled stay, so as to further explore the natural beauty and picturesque landscape. It is accessible by an all-weather road metalled up to Kundal Shahi and well-maintained all the way up to Kel. The valley is also ideal for mountain tourism as it is close to the Nanga Parbat massif. The area is dominated by the Sarwaali peak (6,326 meters), the highest mountain in Azad Kashmir. The hilltops are covered with green forests and the fields are lush green with crops.

The Neelum valley is also fortunate to have an abundance of forests with deodar, pine, fir, wild walnut, strawberry and other types of untamed growth and herbs that are great value in economic terms and, of course, do much to enhance the scenery.

Some of the famous tourist spots in the valley are Shounter Pass, Chita Khata, Ratti Gali, Noori Top, Sharda, Baboon, Arrang Kel, Surgon, Keran and many others.

The Neelum Valley is rich in natural beauty but its inhabitants are mostly poor. Their income is mainly dependant on agriculture, livestock and handicraft. Many residents of the valley migrated to big cities within and outside of Pakistan in search of their livelihood. With the advent of tourism in the valley, new opportunities and sources of income knocked on the doors of the local residents and the valley has seen a rise in local tourism.

Nanga Parbat, seen through the Neelum valley


Shaista Rehman, a tourist who recently returned from the valley, narrated her experience in the captivating journey from Muzaffarabad to Neelum in the following words:

“You can’t help but love all the things you see there: the banks of the Neelum River, towering lush green whispering mountains, awesome weather, crystal clear streams, dense forests, fields of green, mesmerising views of the valley – the whole scene is quite grand and breathtaking. One feels as though it is heaven on Earth!”

She has some recommendations for food:

“I suggest that visitors bring their own food, although they can buy desi chickens at the cheapest rates there and cook in the open air. It would always be wise to bring blankets and bed-sheets so you can enjoy a clean and healthy stay. Above all, the hospitality and simplicity of the people there is unmatched.”

My very dear and respected friend from Indian-administered Kashmir, Muhammad Yousaf Najar, longs to visit the valley, and put it as follows:

“The Neelum Valley is definitely one of the greatest natural marvels dotting our ‘Greater Kashmir’ region. Our elders did indeed visit this Valley just like the easily accessible Gulmarg or Pahalgam areas here in our part of Kashmir. The major part of trade to and from our valley was done via the Srinagar-Rawalpindi Road. So the Neelum Valley worked as a default stop and a picnic spot for our business community and other people. I wish I could drive from Srinagar in the morning and reach the Neelum valley at noon without any hurdles and undue checks of any kind. I wish to meet our separated kin without having to show even a single document on the way. God knows better when such a time will coe. We can only hope that the political leaders on both sides can resolve this great human tragedy once and for all, so that the separated people might reunite their disintegrated family called Kashmir!”

A temporary ban was imposed by the district administration on the entry of tourists to the picturesque Neelum valley of Azad Jammu and Kashmir in the wake of a cross-LoC attack by the Indian Army on a Pakistan Army vehicle in the area. This ban was lifted on the 18th of July, 2017, to the delight of nature lovers. Now tourists are free to enter the valley again.

The Deputy Commissioner at Neelum, as a gesture to visitors, announced that the valley would observe a “rent-free week” from the 1st to the 7th of August, in a show of hospitality towards visitors from any part of the country.

According to the announcement of the district administration, no guesthouse or rent accomodation, either private or public, would charge the tourists for accommodation during that week, except for food or other items of necessity. Tourists are advised to confirm availability of accommodation during that period through their travel agents or other sources to avoid overcrowding.

So who’s packing up?