Khurram Zahid retired from the civil service last year. His wife, Farhat, is a former schoolteacher who now spends most of her time downloading exotic foreign recipes and trying them at home. Mrs. Zahid is an avid host, and likes to invite her friends and extended family over for food marathons on her beautifully decorated terrace in B Block, Defence Housing Authority, Lahore.
Farhat Zahid is 'sick' of fake branches of Koozi Haleem. The one near the Secretariat is the original one
Mr. and Mrs. Zahid have three children. Asad, 27, the eldest is a digital marketer; Sarah, 24, is an architect and Omar, 19, has just got done with his A Levels.
Asad has recently found a job in an advertising agency in Dubai and would be leaving after serving his three-month notice period at his current workplace. Omar is applying for universities in the US and considering his A-levels and SAT scores, coupled with his extracurricular activities, he’s confident he’ll be studying in a top American university this time next year. Sarah, currently a lecturer, got engaged last month, and will move to Karachi at the end of this year after getting married.
Khurram Zahid, who got posted to Lahore 15 years ago to ensure his children managed to study in the best Lahore schools, will now be moving back to his hometown Bhalwal, near Sargodha, along with Mrs. Zahid - after Sarah’s wedding. “There’s no point staying here, since all our kids would be abroad,” says Khurram.
Even so, Mrs Zahid points out, it wasn’t an easy decision. “All five of us are foodies to the core!” she says. “And it’s tough leaving Lahore for any foodie. Especially after spending a decade and a half here.”
The Zahid’s, ultimate food connoisseurs all five of them, made a New Year’s vow earlier this month. Since they’ll all be moving from Lahore, they’d do one final food marathon in the city this year. “We’ve made a list of different eateries all over Lahore that we’ll be going to. We’re calling it the ‘Lahore Food Pilgrimage’” says Sarah. “It’ll have to be span the next couple of months, before Asad bhai leaves for Dubai.”
Khurram Zahid says the family has so many memories and pictures from different food joints in Lahore, that it would be a special memory to do it together maybe one last time. “But the fun bit is the choice of places,” he says.
The Zahid’s have shortlisted 25 places where they will dine out till the end of March. “But nothing from Old Lahore, or MM Alam Road. No foreign food chains or high-end restaurants either,” says Asad. “We already have so many memories from almost all of those places.”
“Every one of us has pitched in with 5 eateries,” says Omar. “But it was a lot more challenging with the handicap of not including MM Alam, the Walled City or the fast food chains.”
Capri Restaurant
“Starting with Capri Restaurant at Liberty was a no-brainer for me,” says Omar. He recommends Capri’s halwa poori and urges everyone to try their parathas as well. “Especially in Ramzan. sehri at Capri is divine,” he says. Omar insists that one must get there early to get the freshest batch and to make sure that one finds a seat.
Jamal Dahi Bhallay
Sarah, a dahi bhallay aficionado, says it’s tough to pick her favourite dahi bhalla place in Lahore. “Jamal Dahi Bhallay in Faisal Town is the one I most frequently go to,” she says. Sarah insists that the dahi bhallay, or chana chat, depending on your choice should be sprinkled with papri. “Otherwise it’s just pointless.”
Molvi Gol Gappay
Considering the infinite options in the city, it’s near impossible to pick one favourite gol gappa place. “But I’m going to stick my neck out: Molvi Gol Gappay at Borwala chowk,” says Asad. He says they are always fresh and crispy, with the filling ‘just like it’s meant to be’.
Kaka Champ Shop
Mrs Farhat Zahid’s favourite place near Johar Town, Kaka Champ Shop serves a wide array of delicacies. “But the good old gurday kapooray are the best of the lot,” says Farhat. “The champs are good, Khurram loves them. But I’ll stick to the gurday.”
Karachi BBQ
Khurram Zahid calls Karachi BBQ the ‘all-rounder in DHA’. “They serve everything there,” he says. “The family has varying preferences, and that’s why we often get food delivered from Karachi BBQ.” Khurram says his personal favourite remains their tikka boti. “The Sheesh Tao chicken is the best. I also like their malai cheese roll.”
The Food Truck Company
Omar really likes the ‘whole truck concept’ and having the food on the go. But he says that’s only a fraction of the whole experience at The Food Truck Company. “I’m in love with their sandwiches,” he says. Omar strongly recommends the mushroom burger to the rest of his family, none of whom have been there yet.
Ghalib Market samosay
Sarah is a fan of evening snacks and says Ghalib market has the best samosay in Lahore. “The purists have their preferred outlets at the market, but honestly, I find all of them equally good,” she says. Sarah loves to couple samosa chats with her favourite chicken kachoris from the market.
Al-Nakhal
While many enjoy the Arabian ambience, Asad is just a fan of hardcore Middle Eastern food. “Lamb meat when done right is just beyond words,” he says. From the falafel to shawarmas to any of their meat-rice combos, Al-Nakhal offers many amazing options to choose from, Asad says. “Not to mention the hummus!”
Koozi Haleem
Farhat Zahid is ‘sick’ of the number of fake branches of Koozi Haleem that have sprung up all over Lahore. “I know the one near the Secretariat is the original one,” she says. “And that’s the one I always insist on going to despite the commute”. Farhat says both chicken and beef haleem at Koozi are ‘equally sublime’.
Dera
Khurram Zahid really enjoys going to Gaddafi Stadium. “I have both cricketing and food-related memories from the stadium,” he says. “The latter being more recent of course.” Khurram appreciates the variety that Dera has to offer. “All desi food, but you get everything from paaye to karahi and handis.”
Liberty Paratha Roll
“The best part about Liberty Paratha Roll is that it’s open at 3am as well,” says Omar. “And it’s not just their paratha rolls. I love their filled naans as well.” The cheese naan is Omar’s favourite.
"While others rely heavily on baisan, Muhammad Siddique near Garhi Shahu relies on pure flesh for the taste"
Wasabi
“What could be better than affordable sushi?” asks Sarah. “We all enjoy Japanese foods, but five adults having Japanese food at a five-star hotel is quite often too expensive.” Sarah says ‘a good chunk’ of her monthly salary goes to Wasabi.
Muhammad Siddique Machhli
“It’s quite possibly the most underrated fish in town,” claims Assad. “While all others rely heavily on their use of baisan, Muhammad Siddique near Garhi Shahu relies on pure flesh for the taste.” Asad says he really enjoys the Rahu fish’s skin and believes that Siddique does it best.
Salt N Pepper Liberty
Farhat Zahid likes hanging out with her friends at Salt N Pepper, Liberty. “It’s one of those rare places in Lahore where all age-groups and many sections of the society come and eat,” she says. Farhat says Salt N Pepper’s stuffed chicken is renowned all over Pakistan, if not the world. “I have been a part of lunches there where every single one of eight to ten of us would order the stuffed chicken as the main course.”
Mohammadi Nihari
Khurram is a big fan of nallee, and often has it for breakfast. He says that while Mohammadi Nihari’s nallee nihari is really good, he often orders just plain nallee. “Their maghaz isn’t bad either. But I have the nallee more often than not,” he says.
Lebanese Corner
While the rest of the family prefers Paradise Shawarma right across the Liberty Road, Omar always insists on having his shawarma from the Lebanese Corner. “There are other ingredients than cheese, you know,” he says. “Lebanese Corner has a wider range of meat options and offers you their special version as well, with mushrooms and olives.”
Udon House
Sarah really enjoys the fact that Korean food is ‘light’. “I often can’t believe how light it feels, considering how delicious it tastes,” she says. “Not to mention the fact that Lahore has a relatively affordable Korean restaurant in itself is super exciting.” Sarah says that the family often takes the food on the go considering that Udon House ‘barely has enough space to accommodate the entire family.’
Phajja paaya
The family accused Asad of ‘cheating’ when he added Phajja as one of his five choices. “Technically it isn’t cheating since I mentioned their Mozang branch not the one in Taxali Gate,” he says. Asad says he is a ‘paaya connoisseur’ and despite having tried ‘every single paaya dish in Lahore’, he believes, nothing beats Phajja. “The maghaz-paaya combo is the best way to get the day off to an explosive start.”
Kashmiri Dal Chawal
Despite being a meat-lover, Mrs Farhat Zahid says that Dal Chawal is her ‘one favourite dish’. “Picking the best dal chawal in Lahore isn’t easy,” she says. “There’s one in Punjab University, another top stall near Ganga Ram Hospital. But if I had to go with one, Kashmiri Dal Chawal on Abbot Road would probably be my pick.”
Goga Naqeebia Channay
Khurram Zahid says that he has singlehandedly played a major part in the transformation of Goga from a channa stall to a channa empire in the past decade or so. “Since we moved to Lahore, I don’t think I’ve gone two full weeks without having Goga at Model Town,” he says. “Murgh, kofta, anda or just plain old channa - every variety tastes perfect.”
Lahore Broast
“Sometimes you just need a solid dose of chicken and nothing else,” says Omar. “Fried chicken, broast, chargha, sajji… Lahore Broast has everything,” he adds. Despite so many fast food chains around in Lahore, Lahore Broast is Omar’s go-to restaurant when he is craving chicken.
Pasta and Pizza
“Pasta and Pizza in Z Block is the closest thing you get to authentic Italian food in the city,” Sarah claims. “Not only the variety of pizzas, there is more than the rest of the pizzerias in Lahore put together. The taste supersedes them all.” She says that even though their meat flavours are as good as anything else in Lahore, it’s the vegetarian options that are ‘surprisingly delicious.’
Rangila Burger
Asad interned at a media house near Charring Cross, Lahore. “There wasn’t a single day at the office when people weren’t ordering Rangila Burger.” Asad said after his first month he ‘fell for it’ himself and ordered it. “It was one of the reasons why I decided to extend my internship there. The most scrumptious beef burger out there for less than 200 rupees!” But that was five years ago, Asad clarified. The price is around Rs. 300 now.
Karachi Naseeb Biryani
Being a Karachiite, Farhat Zahid, takes no nonsense when it comes to labels of ‘Sindhi biryani’. “Lahoris have been selling coloured rice under the garb of Sindhi biryani since forever,” she says, adding that Karachi Naseeb Biryani is the closest to authentic biryani that there is in Lahore. “If I’m not cooking then Karachi Naseeb is the best place in Lahore to eat biryani.”
Xiwang
Mr and Mrs Khurram Zahid have been going to Xiwang in Iqbal Town for the past three decades. “It used to be our dating spot,” Khurram says. “But the nostalgic affiliation aside, it still serves the best Chinese food you can find in Lahore.”
The Zahid family will miss Lahore’s culinary mélange.
J.K. Wali is a freelance journalist and writer based in Lahore