Pakistani mountaineer Sirbaz Khan on Friday etched his name in the annals of mountaineering history by becoming the first Pakistani to conquer all 14 of the world’s peaks that soar above 8,000 metres. He achieved the landmark by summitting the 8,027 metre tall Shishapangma mountain in the Himalayan mountain range in Chinese controlled Tibet.
He has also become the first Pakistani to achieve this superhuman feat without the use of supplemental oxygen.
Sirbaz's feat earns him a spot on the very exclusive club of some 54 people who have climbed all 14 mountains above 8,000 metres.
It is pertinent to note that another Pakistani, who is currently accompanying Sirbaz, Shehroze Kashif, is poised to climb the mountain to now become the second Pakistani to climb all 14 mountains which are over 8,000 metres tall. Nicknamed as 'Broadboy' for having summitted the 8,051 metre Broad Peak in 2019 as the youngest Pakistani to do so, Kashif's efforts to climb Shishapangma would make him the youngest Pakistani to do so and to complete the set of having climbed all 14 mountains.
Shehroze and Sirbaz's efforts to climb Shishapangma last year were thwarted after poor weather and deaths of two competing mountaineers on the mountain forced Chinese authorities to shut down all climbing activity. As a consequence, Shehroze lost his chance to secure the record for the youngest climber to scale all 14 mountains taller than 8,000 metres.
A journey of courage and determination
Sirbaz, who hails from Aliabad in the scenic Hunza Valley of the mountainous Gilgit-Baltistan (GB) region of Pakistan, overcame a journey fraught with challenges to the summit of the world's highest peaks. Each ascent tested his physical and mental fortitude, pushing him to his limits in conditions that few dare to endure. From the biting cold at the summit of Mount Everest to the treacherous slopes of the 'Savage Mountain' K2, he has faced freezing temperatures, relentless winds, and the ever-present danger of avalanches and crevasses.
His commitment to meticulous preparation has been crucial to his success. Sirbaz has spent years honing his skills, training rigorously, and acquiring the necessary experience to tackle these formidable mountains. He emphasises the importance of planning and adapting to rapidly changing conditions, traits that have proven essential in high-altitude climbing.
Inspiration for future generations
Beyond personal glory, Sirbaz Khan’s achievements resonate with a broader significance. His success serves as a beacon of hope and inspiration for mountaineers, particularly in Pakistan, a country known for its breathtaking yet formidable mountain ranges. By conquering these peaks, he has not only brought pride to his nation but has also opened doors for future generations of climbers.
His story is one of perseverance, showcasing how passion can drive individuals to achieve what once seemed impossible. Sirbaz hopes that his accomplishments will encourage young climbers in Pakistan to pursue their dreams and break barriers, regardless of the challenges they may face.
A legacy in mountaineering
As Sirbaz Khan’s journey continues, his impact on the mountaineering community is undeniable. He has become a symbol of resilience, embodying the spirit of adventure that defines the pursuit of high-altitude climbing. His journey exemplifies that with dedication, meticulous preparation, and a fearless heart, even the highest peaks can be conquered.
According to a message issued by the Alpine Club of Pakistan, the apex body for mountaineering in Pakistan, the global mountaineering community and Pakistan are celebrating his historic achievements, Sirbaz’s story is far from over. He remains committed to exploring new horizons and inspiring others, proving that the mountains, though daunting, hold the promise of incredible adventures and unparalleled triumphs, the statement added.
Shehroze, who is currently at the Shishapangma basecamp after he and Sirbaz travelled there together, feted his fellow countryman.
"I salute your monumental achievement! Becoming the first Pakistani to summit all 14 8000ers is a testament to your unwavering determination, resilience, and mountaineering prowess. Your name etched in history inspires a nation," he stated in a post on social media along with a picture with Sirbaz.
"As a fellow mountaineer and brother, I'm honoured to share this journey with you. Your accomplishment fuels my own resolve. In a few days, I'll follow in your footsteps, aiming to replicate your feat and further cement Pakistan's presence on the world mountaineering map," he said, adding, "Your triumph is not just personal; it's a milestone for our country. You've shown the world what Pakistanis are capable of."
"Congratulations, brother! Enjoy this moment, and know I'll soon join you in this elite club InshAllah in few days."