In the sprawling heart of Karachi lies the Christian enclave of Essa Nagri (Christian settlement) tucked into the narrow streets of Gulshan-e-Iqbal. People here live worlds apart from the city’s bustling life, in an overlooked corner. The community, though marred by hardship, displays a resilience that keeps them connected and hopeful.
Essa Nagri feels like an isolated world within a world, where women navigate the harsh realities of addiction, poverty, and systemic neglect with determination. This is their story, told through the experiences of three women striving to overcome these barriers in their own ways.
Street number six: First impressions
Stepping into Essa Nagri, I immediately noticed the shift in the atmosphere. The medium-height office and apartment complexes of Gulshan-e-Iqbal suddenly gave way to dilapidated structures pressed tightly together, marking the distinct boundaries of this neglected neighbourhood.
In Street number six, my first destination, the air felt heavy with an unspoken tension.
Men lingered idly, their eyes following passersby. Music blared through speakers, creating a jarring backdrop to the scene, while inebriated individuals littered the sidewalks, oblivious to the world around them. Amid this, women maneuvered through the streets, defying their environment on their way to carrying out their daily routines.
Essa Nagri grapples with a devastating epidemic of substance abuse, particularly among men. These men are lured into addiction, according to the residents, by the ready supply of drugs and alcohol reportedly supplied by certain local administrators. For the women, this reality means carrying a double burden, as they navigate both financial and familial responsibilities while managing the fallout of addiction in their households.
The men may stumble, but somehow, every mistake falls on us. We’re supposed to hold everything together, yet we’re never given our due,” Seema remarked, her voice a blend of sorrow and resolve
Fareeda: A beacon of hope
Fareeda, a young mother of three daughters, greeted me warmly despite her obvious preoccupation with preparing for a job interview. Her home was a stark contrast to the exterior surroundings; neat, organised, and decorated with touches that reflected her pride and care. Despite her responsibilities and the challenges of working multiple jobs, Fareeda remained optimistic about the future of her daughters.
She shared her frustrations about the gender disparity when it comes to education within Essa Nagri. Women, she observed, often strive for literacy and self-betterment, while the men frequently abandon schooling, squandering the opportunities available to them with many succumbing to the grip of addiction.
“Educated women are left with few choices, often marrying men who lack the same aspirations or who struggle with substance abuse,” Fareeda explained. “In the end, women like me have to fill the gaps – financially and emotionally.”
Seema: The weight of responsibility
Seema’s story reflects the silent battles of countless women in Essa Nagri. A mother of two, Seema’s life is shaped by her efforts to singlehandedly support her family. Her battles, however, are not limited to just striving to provide for her family, but also drug addiction.
Thin and weary, she describes how her younger son has also fallen into addiction despite her relentless efforts to keep him in school and away from drugs. Her frustration lies in the hypocrisy of a society where women bear the blame for their sons’ missteps, despite doing their utmost to support their families.
“The men may stumble, but somehow, every mistake falls on us. We’re supposed to hold everything together, yet we’re never given our due,” Seema remarked, her voice a blend of sorrow and resolve. Her words underscore a recurring theme: the burden of responsibility disproportionately rests on the shoulders of Essa Nagri’s women, whose efforts are rarely acknowledged or rewarded.
Rose Mary: A voice for change
In Rose Mary, I found a woman who was both resilient and deeply reflective. A former healthcare worker, she now juggles roles to provide for her family while still finding time to create awareness through her YouTube channel. Through her videos, recorded in her modest home, she addresses the community’s struggles with addiction and the importance of moral and religious grounding.
For Rose, education is essential – not just in the formal sense, but as a means of instilling moral values. “If our men were grounded in their beliefs, they wouldn’t be so easily led astray,” she insisted. Rose pointed to a twisted concept of “respect” (izzat and honour) in the community, where daughters’ schooling is often discouraged yet are ultimately forced to work to support their families when male breadwinners falter.
“Where is their respect now, when we are the ones who must step outside to make ends meet?” Rose asked pointedly.
A community’s strength amidst hardship
Despite these struggles, Essa Nagri is more than the sum of its challenges. Its church stands as a gathering place, a sanctuary for the community, where people can come together to find solace and strength. On Sundays, the church bustles with activity, as residents participate in familiar customs that bring a sense of belonging. Here, community members lean on one another, drawing strength from shared faith and collective resilience.
I felt a sense of unity and an unspoken understanding among the people in Essa Nagri. These people, despite their circumstances, find ways to support each other. The women I met are the unsung heroes of this enclave: their strength and hope are a testament to the resilience of those who persevere even in the face of adversity.
In their world within a world, they continue, day by day, to rewrite their own narratives – not defined by the problems around them but by the community they build and the future they envision.