In almost every district of Sindh there is located a historic mosque noted for its embellishments. One such mosque, located about 10 km south of Dadu town, is the historic Jami Mosque Khudabad which is known to have been built by Mian Yar Muhammad Kalhoro, the true founder of the Kalhora Dynasty in Sindh (1701-1719).
The Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb made Mian Yar Muhammad Kalhoro the governor of Derajat in 1701 and conferred upon him the title of Khudayar Khan resulting in the foundation of his capital at Khudabad. Simultaneously, he laid the foundation of Jami Mosque. Mian Yar Muhammad Kalhoro is reputed to have been a benevolent and munificent Kalhora ruler who ruled astutely over upper Sindh. He was an enthusiast of architecture and built a number of tombs which include those of Mian Nasir Muhammad Kalhoro, Mian Deen Muhammad Kalhoro, Mian Mir Muhammad Kalhoro, Gul Mohammad Khuhawar I, Bisharat Khan Khuhawar, Sarang Khan Khuhawar, Bagho Chandio, Mir Sobdar Khan Talpur, Nindo Khoso, Fojo Faqir etc. — all of which are located in the necropolis of Mian Nasir Muhammad Kalhoro.
Apart from the tombs at Garhi, he ordered several tombs at his capital Khudabad, notably those of Datto Khan Khuhawar, one of his ministers, Shahdad Khan Langah, Mangho Faqir Jatoi etc. Mian Yar Muhammad built many mausoleums scattered all over Dadu and Larkana districts. He also built his tomb during his lifetime which still dominates the landscape of Khudabad and is conspicuous from a distance.
Lily arabesque in mural ceramics, at the Jami mosque
After the Shah Jahani Mosque of Thatta, the Jami Mosque of Khudabad is perhaps the most beautiful and imposing structure throughout Sindh
The mosque occupied a very important position in Kalhora architecture. The first mosque, built by Adam Shah Kalhoro at Haitri Ghulam Shah, does not exist now. His successors Mian Daud Kalhoro, Mian Ilyas Kalhoro, Mian Shahal Muhammad Kalhoro built mosques in their respective dairas, a religious settlement where Kalhoras and their disciples preached Mehdvi thought and ideology. Unfortunately, not a single such mosque survives today.
After the martyrdom of Mian Shahal Muhammad Kalhoro, Mian Jan Muhammad Kalhoro, Mian Yar Mohammad Kalhor and Mian Taban Kalhoro in battle against Mughal loyalists in the present district of Larkana, Mian Nasir Muhammad shifted his daira from Larkana to the present tehsil of Khairpur Nathan Shah where he established the town of Garhi, named after one of his female disciples. Here, Mian Nasir Muhammad Kalhoro built the Jami Mosque in 1659. Seven years later, Mian Laskar Khan Kalhoro the grandson of Mian Shahal Muhammad Kalhoro founded the town of Khanpur in 1666 and at the same time built a three domed mosque, noted for stucco work. There were two persons by the name of Laskar Khan in the royal family of Kalhoras; one grandson of Mian Nasir and other grandson of Mian Shahal Muhammad Kalhoro. Khanpur is now a small town and located 15 km from Khairpur Nathan Shah on the National Highway.
Among these mosques, the Jami Mosque of Khudabad is more prominent and is a great specimen of Kalhora architecture. Prior to Khudabad Mosque, all other Kalhora mosques were simply built and lacked many embellishments. Chiroly, a cement like substance, was used in early Kalhora mosques; while the Jami Mosque of Khudabad is opulently decorated with glazed tiles representing geometric and floral designs.
Jami mosque, Khudabad
After the Shah Jahani Mosque of Thatta, the Jami Mosque of Khudabad is perhaps the most beautiful and imposing structure throughout Sindh
The Jami Mosque of Khudabad is rectangular in plan and built on a raised platform. It is accessed through a set of semi-circular steps on the eastern side. The stairs lead to an imposing arched entrance opening to a large courtyard. It has the usual three-arched entrances leading to an antechamber with intricately decorated domes covering the prayer hall below. The mosque reflects a blend of Central Asian and local styles of architecture.
After the Shah Jahani Mosque of Thatta, which was built by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan, the Jami Mosque of Khudabad is perhaps the most beautiful and imposing structure throughout Sindh. The exterior of the building is lavishly covered with some of the most exquisite glazed tile work in the province. Its interior is adorned with frescoes. The external walls are divided into panels with blind arches, giving the structure a marked three-tiered appearance. The panels are vivid and glowing. Both sides of arched entrance to the ante-chamber is bedecked with glazed tiles representing lily plants in blossom or leaves; flowers and buds sprouting from the central stem and falling over right and left in natural curves.
In the good old days the mosque used to draw a large number of namazis. Now, very few people offer prayer in the mosque.
Recently, it was renovated by the Culture, Tourism and Antiquities department, Government of Sindh. Preservation has stopped it from further decay and destruction. Some of the painted panels which were in bad state of preservation were also restored by the department. The façade of the mosque was adorned with glazed tiles, a majority of which came off over period of time. During restoration of the mosque, the façade of the mosque was restored and ceramic tiles were also used.
Formerly it was in in a dilapidated state of preservation, but the recent facelift has given it new look. Due to the seepage of water, the northern dome had caved in and to save it from further damage, corrugated sheets were crudely placed over the dome. The remaining domes had also developed cracks as well. Rain also played havoc with other parts of the mosque. Rainwater used to dribble through the cracks in the domes, further rendering damage to the whole structure. Sometimes, rainwater penetrated through the domes and accumulated in the chamber of the mosque.
During the conservation of the mosque, the dome was also restored and it saved the interior paintings and ceramic tiles from further damage. Barring the Shah Jahan mosque and few structures at Makli Hill, one does not see such refined and magnificent mural paintings and ceramics in elsewhere in Sindh.
The author is an anthropologist. He may be contacted at zulfi04@hotmail.com
