As we approached his house we saw Mehrban Shah, the recipient of the President’s Pride of Performance Award in the field of mountaineering, busy chopping wood. When he saw his friend Ishaq Ali, a local guide from Karimabad who was facilitating my interviews, he rushed over with a big smile on his face. As the two men hugged I felt the genuine warmth of this man. After introductions were made he apologised that his clothes weren’t the most proper for an interview but that he had been busy with the harvest. We had shown up at his busiest time and here he was apologising for being in a jacket and not his best local attire! He would later change so I could take a picture with his award. It was truly humbling to see him then run back to the wood and refuse the help of his younger friend. He was urgently chopping it to make us some tea and lunch, we found out later, and wanted to do it himself as we were his guests. It took a while to convince him that someone else would do it so that we could share the story of his life instead. The conversation that ensued was heartwarming: for his manner is such that he immediately puts you at ease.
Sitting on the floor of his traditional house he laughs as he mentions that he was born somewhere around 1957 (he does not recall the exact details) and only began climbing in 1991. Mid thirties are a rather late age to start on major expeditions but he was very close to his friend Rajab Shah, the first Pakistani to successfully summit all five of Pakistan’s 8000-metre peaks. “He was my teacher. With him I went to K2 in 1992 and we succeeded. Together we took the flag of Pakistan to the peak of Pakistan” he said smiling softly. “I didn’t have training but Rajab taught me. These days there are schools but back then I had only my friend!”
A climber attempts K2
He has very fond memories of Rajab, who sadly passed away in 2015: “I went to K2 five times in my life. Rajab was always with me.”
They only succeeded the first time and had to return the next four times due to problems. But Shah remains his positive self when talking about these failed attempts. “Thanks to Allah, we came back safe and didn’t take any risks.” Both men shared an innate humbleness that kept this dynamic duo safe on the mountains throughout their illustrious climbing careers. It is ironic that both men were also destined to lose their sons to the mountains. His son Ghulam Shah lost his life on Sonia Peak in 2001, he mentions, as tears welled up in his eyes. We quickly changed the topic at this point, as recalling the tragic loss seemed too traumatic for this normally joyful gentleman even to this day.
Some major achievements that he racked up over his career include Gasherbrum I (8068m) in 1992, K2 (8611m) in 1995, Paso peak in 1996, Gasherbrum II (8035m) in 1998 and 1999 and Broad Peak Rocky Summit (8030m) in 2001. At one time he held the title of youngest Pakistani to successfully summit K2, a title which since has been passed on to Ali Durrani of Hushe. He was also on the failed 1997 Everest expedition that he quietly expresses sadness about. Accounts have varied on why the climb wasn’t successful however many believe that Rajab and Mehrban were quite close to the summit before being ordered down by a senior on the expedition.
“Aaj tak mera dil bohat karab hai” he says (to this day his heart doesn’t feel right about it). They had worked extremely hard for this once-in-a-lifetime chance for two men from a remote village and neither ever got to attempt it again due to lack of funds. However, he seemed to hold no real ill-will on a personal level and remembered the other members with respect and love. His only disappointment was not being able to scale a mountain that he felt was child’s play as compared to the much more demanding K2.
On the summit
Mehrban Shah comes off as a feminist even if he might not identify with or even be familiar with the term. Like his climbing partner Rajab Shah, Mehrban Shah firmly believes that women should be given the same opportunities as men in every field, which includes climbing. One of his most significant contributions is his 2007 Mingling Sar (6050m) climb with his daughter-in-law, which is a unique occurrence. He is also the vice president of Shimshal Mountaineering School where the mission statement is “To promote adventure sports as a profession, disaggregated by gender and sex for the youth of mountain region of Pakistan in a sustainable manner, through boosting professional skills”. He worked on that mission together with Rajab Shah, who was the president till his death. Keen on making sure the next generation has the benefit of better training, he mentions that they made a school but they need better funding to be able to educate and train the youth. He felt that the government must spend money in this field as Pakistan has a lot of talent.
He is very grateful to the recognition that he got from the government when he received his award – which was presented to him by the then President Laghari, who he feels generally supported them a lot. He is also very grateful for the support of the Alpine Club of Pakistan. But ever mindful of other people, he also adds that the government should also think about the lower level mountaineering workers. He also firmly believes that life insurance for porters must be increased by the government even though it is no longer of consequence to him personally.
Mehrban Shah
One of his most significant contributions is his 2007 Mingling Sar (6050m) climb with his daughter-in-law, which is a unique occurrence
When I ask if there is anything he would like the younger generation to learn apart from the technical training, his honest and simple nature shines through. “I request our youth to do their work with honesty”. He pauses and adds that people have to be honest in their work no matter what they do. They shouldn’t only think about themselves but rather their country.
The interview is briefly interrupted when our lunch arrives, cooked by his lovely wife Jamila. It was easy to see that the bond between them is strengthened by her good nature which mirrors his own. She had prepared Chalpindok, a traditional dish made with dried yak curd, chapattis and loads and loads of butter. It is made for special occasions, Mehrban informs us. Given the fact that they had only a day’s notice that guests were arriving, one of which he had never met before, his ‘mehrban’ (kind) nature is obvious.
Shah officially retired from climbing in 2005. He says he loved to climb but he had to recognise that he was getting older and it was time. His sons also urged him to put down his ice axe. Keen to continue an active lifestyle he picked up a spade instead and now has an orchard on his land in Shimshal. Out of many retired climbers that I have met through my work, Mehrban Shah stands out as one of the most positive. “I have climbed many mountains in my years. I got an award from President of Pakistan and I am very grateful to Allah for it all” he puts it in his charming unpretentiousness.
