Haibat Faqir Jamali And The Cemetery Of Saints

Haibat Faqir Jamali And The Cemetery Of Saints
About 8 km southeast of Nindo town in Badin, Sindh, is located the historical necropolis of Haibat Faqir Jamali in the village of the same name. The necropolis contains many tombs of Mianwal Faqirs of the Kalhoras who died either fighting against the enemies while defending their land or spent their lives in preaching thought and ideology of their mentor Mian Nasir Muhammad Kalhoro (d. 1692), his grandson Mian Noor Muhammad Kalhoro (d.1753) and great-grandson Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro (d.1772).

The tomb of Haibat Faqir Jamali dominates the landscape of the graveyard. All these saints and soldiers of the Mianwal Tariqa of the Kalhoras were under the command of Haibat Faqir Jamali. He served as a general of Mian Noor Muhammad Kalhoro. Simultaneously, he also spread the tenets of the Mianwal Tariqa or Tehreek (movement). Many people became his disciples and his daira (commune) was always crowded with people who used to come to attend his lectures on religious discourse.

Mian Noor Muhammad Kalhoro, who ruled over Sindh from 1719 to 1753, posted Haibat Faqir in the area that bordered with Kutch. He was also responsible for feeding the needy and the poor who fell under his dominion. The stories of his spirituality and righteousness were known far and wide.

Dilapidated stone-carved graves in the cemetery of Haibat Faqir Jamali


At present, the shrine of Haibat Faqir is frequented by his devotees. Sick people are healed through musical therapy here. The disciples of Haibat Faqir play the Surando (fiddle) and recite Azi (invocation), which is important to the identity of all the shrines of Mianwal Tariqa of Kalhoras throughout Sindh. Azi is an invocation to God, mentioning the Holy Prophet (PBUH). The names of the following Mians are narrated in the Azi: Mian Adam Shah Kalhoro, Mian Daud Kalhoro, Mian Illyas Kalhoro, Mian Shahal Muhammad Kalhoro, Mian Nasir Muhammad Kalhoro, Mian Yar Muhammad Kalhoro, Mian Noor Muhammad Kalhoro and Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro) for granting health peace and prosperity. The devotees of Haibat Faqir earn a considerable amount of money from this practice. Apart from this, many other rituals, notably Shadmano (ceremonial festivity) and Khushi (fine imposed whenever there is any violation of rules according to the principles of the Mianwal Tariqa and a devotee is supposed to pay the fine joyfully), are performed at the shrine of Haibat Faqir Jamali.
Some of the decorated slabs have been taken away by avaricious people – either to decorate their drawing rooms or to sell in the markets. It is very unfortunate that the theft of these fabulous pieces of art continues unabated

The shrine of Haibat Faqir stands in good condition and is properly maintained and managed by his devotees. However, the tombs of his soldiers and disciples lie in a very pathetic condition. The tomb of Shadi Faqir Jamali, who was the chief disciple of Haibat Faqir Jamali, has crumbled into pieces. The descendants of Shadi Faqir who frequently visit the shrine do not bother to carry out the renovations to the structure. Likewise, the devotees of Shadi Faqir are very indifferent so far as the renovation is concerned. Shadi Faqir composed poetry and greatly eulogised his mentor in his verse. Through the poems of Shadi Faqir Jamali, one comes to know that Haibat Faqir Jamali was also greatly venerated in parts of Kutch and as far as Anjar.

Stone carved grave of Manjhi Faqir Leghari in Haibat Faqir Jamali necropolis


Apart from the tomb of Shadi Faqir, the grave of Sanjar Faqir Jamali is also in a dilapidated condition. He was too disciple of Haibat Faqir Jamali and played a very significant role in spreading the thought and ideology of the Mianwal Tariqa in general and Mian Nasir Muhammad Kalhoro in particular (1657-1692). Like other dignitaries buried in the necropolis of Haibat Faqir Jamali, he was also believed to have visited the shrine of Mian Nasir Muhammad Kalhoro in Garhi Dadu many times. The brunt bricks of the tomb are strewn over the site. Near the tomb of Sanjar Jamali is situated the tomb of Malook Faqir Jamali, a distinguished saint and soldier of the Mianwal Tariqa. He took part in many battles under the command of Haibat Faqir Jamali and displayed his bravery and heroism in every encounter against enemies. He was a very saintly person: many people enrolled themselves as his disciples. One of the prominent disciples of Malook Faqir Jamali was Nebaho Faqir Leghari whose tomb is located about 10 km east of Kadan town in Badin.

To the south of Haibat Faqir Jamali's shrine is located the derelict and dilapidated tomb of Baharo Faqir Lashari, devout disciple of Haibat Faqir Jamali. Unfortunately, his tomb has almost leveled to the ground. Close to the tomb of Baharo Faqir is located the crumbling grave of Ghazi Faqir.

To the east of the tomb of Baharo Faqir is the tombstone of Manjhi Faqir Leghari. The tombstone of Manjhi Faqir is decorated with floral and geometric designs. The tombstone resembles those at Chaukhandi in Karachi, Makli, Pir Patho and Sonda in Thatta. There are more than ten tombstones in the necropolis, out of which eight are in crumbling condition. Dislodged decorative slabs of tombstones are lying everywhere in the graveyard. Some of the decorated slabs have been taken away by avaricious people – either to decorate their drawing rooms or to sell in the markets. It is very unfortunate that the theft of these fabulous pieces of art continues unabated.

Adjacent to the tombstone of Manjhi Faqir Leghari is the gravestone of Jama Faqir Guranaro alias Jumro and Dara Shah. Comparatively, their tombstones are in fairly good condition. They are also adorned with floral and geometric designs.

In addition to these structures, there are more than a hundred stone-carved graves that are crumbling slab by slab.

First, the concerned authorities should take notice of the decay and destruction of vanishing visual heritage. To arrest further decay of the monuments, the concerned authorities should restore these pieces of architecture to their original glory. Secondly, they should appoint guards to stop the whisking away of the valuable decorative slabs of tombstones.

The author is an anthropologist. He tweets at: @Kalhorozulfiqar