Of The Tikho Tombs In Baran Valley

"The intricate designs found on these tombs—whether floral, geometric, or figural—demonstrate the mastery of Sindhi artists"

Of The Tikho Tombs In Baran Valley
Caption: Jewellery depictions on dislodged slab in Tikho graveyard

Many historic tombs can be found along the Baran ephemeral river and its tributaries. Among these is a prominent cemetery known as Tikho Wariyoon Rumiyoon, or the Tombs of Tikho – located adjacent to the water body referred to as Tikho or Tikho Aatri. This water body is within the Nai Baran ephemeral river and irrigates the agricultural land of neighbouring Haji Esso Sehtani village. This necropolis is situated approximately half a kilometre to the west of Tikho. It contains stone tombs, both carved and plain.  The village of Haji Esso Sehtani is located near this cemetery. This cemetery is situated about 11 kilometres east of Taung village in Jamshoro’s Thano Bula Khan. Furthermore, it can be accessed from Chandam Lak for those travelling from Karchat to Taung. Upon crossing Chandam Lak, one will reach Tikho and can turn west to reach the historical cemetery.

When I first visited the Tikho Graveyard in 2009 with the late Haji Haseen Khaskheli from Thano Bula Khan, he told me that this cemetery belonged to the Kanara clan; hence it was referred to as Kanaran Jo Muqam (The graveyard of the Kanara clan). However, during my revisit in 2017, this claim was disputed by other local people. More recent interviews with locals and knowledgeable individuals, such as Khadim Khaskheli from Taung village, Sikandar Rind from Misri Khan Rind village, Daud Rind and Shahid Mooso from Karchat village, revealed that the graveyard does not belong to the Kanara clan. The Kanra clan claims to be descended from the Burfat tribe, a claim that requires further research to reach a definitive conclusion.

Tombs in Tikho graveyard near Baran river

The identities of those interred in the stone tombs remain unknown; however, it is likely that the dignitaries of the Burfat tribe are buried here, as this area was once under their dominion. The cemetery contains approximately 20 stone tombs. One can spot another necropolis with a single stone-carved grave along the path to this cemetery.

Several stone cenotaphs in the graveyard are notable for their unusual height. Similar tombs can be found in the Jam Lohar graveyard in Taung. The Tikho graveyard has single, double, and triple caskets or chambered tombs. Not all of these tombs are elaborately carved; a few are undecorated. One of the most prominent tombs in the graveyard consists of a stacked tower of three superimposed caskets. It is set over two base slabs. The first slab is plain, while the second features decorative elements. The first casket of the tomb is positioned on the decorative slab and consists of two rectangular slabs on the eastern and western sides. All the slabs are richly carved, featuring geometric and floral patterns. The second casket is placed on the decorative covering slab. It shows a series of rosettes in relief, with their aesthetic appeal and sophistication accentuated by the geometric patterns. Notably, the southern slab of the grave is missing. The third casket of the tomb is also placed on the decorative slab that covers it. The decoration on this slab differs from that of the other two covering slabs and features a chain motif commonly found in many stone-carved graves at the various graveyards in Thano Bula Khan. The third casket depicts rosettes enclosed within arched niches—a decorative style frequently seen on stone-carved graves throughout Sindh. The gravestone or headstone of the tomb is set over five richly carved covering slabs. The gravestone itself is tastefully engraved and divided into two sections, each adorned with the same rosette designs, creating a harmonious symmetry in the stone carvings by Sindhi artists. Most impressive is the boss that emerges from the head end of the gravestone. A miniature railing encircles this boss, an artistic element that can be found in various other graveyards in Sindh.

Richly ornamented tomb in Tikho graveyard

The identities of those interred in the stone tombs remain unknown; however, it is likely that the dignitaries of the Burfat tribe are buried here, as this area was once under their dominion

To the west of this tomb lies a double casket tomb. Between the two tombs are a few dilapidated cenotaphs. This cenotaph features a pattern of full and half rosettes, along with a cross-shaped motif visible on the first casket. The decorative covering slab separates the first casket from the second. The second casket is ornamented with a cross motif. The gravestone, which was set over three decorative covering slabs, is now lying on the ground. This gravestone depicts a horse rider with an engraved sword and dagger. Representations of horse riders or armed warriors are often found on the gravestones of tombs in Sindh. The most prominent tombs can be seen in Chaukhandi tombs in Karachi, Makli, Dars Warayo, Raj Malik, Sonda, Pir Patho, Pir Lakho in Thatta, Tak Makan, Sumbak Sawai, and Jam Lohar in Jamshoro’s Thano Bula Khan.

The author in Tikho graveyard in 2009

To the west of the three-chambered tomb is another tomb consisting of two chambers, which similarly features a dislodged gravestone. This tomb is set over two unadorned base slabs. Both the first and second caskets of the tomb are adorned with rosettes and geometric patterns. The gravestone, which was initially placed over five decorative covering slabs, is currently dislodged. Only the top part of the gravestone remains; the broken gravestone is lying adjacent to the tomb.

Depiction of a mounted warrior on dislodged slab in Tikho graveyard

A few one-chambered tombs are also richly ornamented. The gravestones of these tombs are also dislodged. One can also spot a tomb of a child in the graveyard. In addition to the richly carved tombs, three undecorated tombs are found in the cemetery. One of these tombs consists of a stacked tower of three superimposed caskets, while another consists of two superimposed caskets. The tomb with three caskets is supported by two undecorated base slabs. Its gravestone is set atop five undecorated slabs, featuring a single horizontal decorative strip along the edge of the gravestone.

The second undecorated tomb consists of two chambers and displays only a horizontal strip with an arched pattern beneath the edge. This tomb's gravestone is also supported by five plain covering slabs. In the graveyard, a few dislodged decorative slabs can be seen. Two tombs erected on a common platform depict ewer and rosary. Such symbols can be seen in several tombs in Thano Bula Khan and other graveyards in Karachi’s Malir district. 

An undecorated tomb in the Tikho graveyard

One also observes several dislodged and dilapidated tombs in the Tikho graveyard. Among the dislodged slabs, one slab illustrates a diverse collection of jewellery items, including bracelet, finger rings, earrings, bangles, nose ring, necklace, and necklet. Such an intricate variety of jewellery is also found in several other graveyards in Sindh, with the Chaukhandi tombs, Baloch tombs, Raj Malik, Tak Makan, and Jam Lohar graveyards being the most prominent examples. Moreover, I have also seen similarly remarkable depictions of jewellery on tombs at the Hindan necropolis in Hub’s Dureji tehsil and Lasbela’s Bara Bagh.

The Tikho tombs along the Baran ephemeral river were mainly built in the 17th and 18th centuries. The intricate designs found on these tombs—whether floral, geometric, or figural—demonstrate the mastery of Sindhi artists in funerary art.

The author is an anthropologist. He tweets at: @Kalhorozulfiqar