Neglected Necropolis of the Khuhawars

Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro on the tombs of nobles of Punjabi origin who went to Sindh to serve the Kalhora dynasty

Neglected Necropolis of the Khuhawars
There are a number of sites of historical significance in the Warah tehsil of Kamber- Shahadadkot in Sindh. These include the Khuhawar tombs and Gul Muhammad mosque at Gaji Khuhawar town, Mungo mosque in Sheikh Farm village, the tomb of Mundar Lakho in the village of the same name, the tomb in Abad Kalhora village, an old mosque in Khandu village, the tomb of Hyder Shah, a mosque in Khuda Bakhsh Sial village and a mosque in Maluk Shah village. Unfortunately, all of these have been left to the mercy of nature and humans – and are fast breaking apart.

About 3 km northeast of the town of Gaji Khuhawar are three centuries-old tombs of Khuhawars and Khokhars. During the rule of the Kalhoras, many tribes from Punjab came to settle in Sindh, including the Khuhawar, Khokhar and Sial. The Kalhoras encouraged the migration of these people and furnished them with lands and important positions in their government. Some were even included in the army. One Muhammed Hasan Khuhawar, who was general in the Kalhora army, was known for his bravery, swordsmanship and ability to lead the army in combat. Another such famous personage of the Kalhora dynasty was Shahdad Khan Khuhawar who laid the foundation of ‘Shadadpur’; later it was renamed Shahdadkot, that is now a taluka in Kamber-Shahdadkot district.

Floral design inside the tomb of Mian Budho


There are five tombs that belong to Mian Gaji Khuhawar, Mian Mubarak Khuhawar, Mian Budho Khuhawar, Mian Sandho Khokhar and Mian Mungo Khokhar which were built during the Kalhora period (1681-1783). Legend has it that Mian Gaji Khuhawar was a disciple of Mian Nasir Muhammad Kalhoro (1657-1692). He served as minister ofMian Nasir MuhammadKalhoro. MianGaji Khuhawar was a very religious person; he established many madrasahs where religious education was imparted to people. During his tenure as a minister he also built some tombs, notably of his relatives and friends. He was also responsible for recruiting people in the time of crisis. In fact, Mian Gaji Khuhawar was very committed to the welfare of the people; he dug a number of wells for the poor. During his time, life and property were safe and secure. There was no larceny and mugging during his tenure as minister in the region. People led a peaceful life. He was held him in great esteem due to his righteousness and generous attitude. He could be described not only as a pious man but also as a religious scholar – and a kindhearted, benevolent and effective administrator.

The tomb of Mian Gaji Khuhawar is bigger than adjoining tombs. He built the tomb during his lifetime. It is built on a square plan and is painted on the exterior as well as the interior. But frequent renovations by his descendants have damaged the paintings. To the southwest of the tomb of Mian Gaji Khuhawar lies the tomb of Mian Mubarak Khuhawar, who was the eldest son of Mian Gaji Khuhawar. The tomb is in ruins and is exposed to the constant threat of salinity and waterlogging that has contributed to the erosion of the structure very rapidly. To the southeast of the tomb of Mian Gaji Khuhawar is the tomb of Mian Budho Khuhawar – who was the nephew of the former. The structure is falling to pieces due to lack of proper maintenance. From inside, it still looks unsullied and is painted immaculately. A majority of the paintings depict floral designs of various sizes.

Painting in Gul Muhammad Khuhawar mosque


Besides the tombs of the Khuhawar tribe, there exist two tombs of the Khokhar tribe. A brick-built canopy, which is not far from the tomb of Mian Gaji Khuhawar, belongs to Mian Sandho Khokhar. He was Mian Gaji Khuhawar’s personal secretary when he was the minister. The tomb of Mian Sandho Khokhar is in a very bad state of preservation. Nearby lies the tomb of the Mungo Khokhar that is in a fairly good condition. Both Mian Sandho and Mungo Khokhar were brothers and worked with Mian Gaji Khuhawar as his subordinates.

About 3 km from the necropolis of Gaji Khuhawar is the famous town founded by the man and named after him. This small town is still famous for the fabulously built three-domed mosque which was built by Mian Gaji Khuhawar and later renovated by his grandson Mian Gul Muhammad Khuhawar. He also served as a minister during the Talpur dynasty, most probably during the rule of Mir Karam Ali Khan Talpur. The mosque, like the other monuments of Khuhawar, stands in a very derelict condition. Some notables of the town have carried out repairs to the mosque by defacing its original beauty. Apart from Gul Muhammad Mosque, there is another three-domed mosque, which lies about 3 km from Gaji Khuhawar town in a small village known as Sheikh Farm. The mosque was built by Mungo Khokhar and is entirely painted from inside. Although it is a victim of neglect, it has still survived in its original beauty. It is a huge building, conspicuous from a distance.

The authorities concerned should chalk out a strategy to preserve these historic tombs and promote them as potential tourist sites.

The author is an anthropologist. He may be contacted at: zulfi04@hotmail.com

The author is an anthropologist. He tweets at: @Kalhorozulfiqar