The necropolis of Qalandar, locally called Qalandar Jo Muqam, is a historical site located in the Thano Bula Khan taluka of Jamshoro district. It is about 45 kilometres north of the town of Thano Bula Khan and 7 kilometres from Thano Arib Khan. The cemetery derives its name from Qalandar, a figure believed to have belonged to the Birahmani tribe. This cemetery is recognised for its remarkable stone-carved graves, some of which date back to the 18th century. These graves showcase the area's artistic and cultural heritage. I first visited this necropolis in 2007 and revisited it in 2010 to conduct detailed research on the motifs of the stone-carved graves for my book on the Cultural Heritage of Thano Bula Khan. These stone carvings are locally referred to as Rumiyoon.
There are about ten stone-carved graves and one simple, undecorated grave. Several stone graves appear to have been vandalised by treasure hunters. There are also several plastered graves in the necropolis. The most prominent one is erected over a platform constructed of undressed stones. This grave is thought to be that of Mir Qalandar Birahmani, after whom this necropolis takes its name. There are several plastered graves in the cemetery of Qalandar. Many graves made of thin stone bricks are found in the necropolis. Most of these graves are marked with monoliths on both the northern and southern sides.
Next to the platform of Qalandar Birahmani stands a memorial or commemorative tower, known locally as Mahi. These towers, referred to as Mahyoon, are scattered throughout Sindh-Kohistan and the Khirthar Range. The term “Mahi” (memorial) is in vogue in Sindh Kohistan, whereas “Churo” (memorial) is used in the Khirthar range in Dadu and Kamber-Shahdadkot districts. In Banbhore, three Mahyoon or commemorative towers were erected – of which two are still standing – to honour the heroic death of three heroes, Mugur Jokhio, Harho and Mitho, who died fighting against cattle thieves. Hassan Jakhro and Miran Jakhro were the ones who spearheaded the raiding party. There are several commemorative towers in the Thano Bula Khan taluka, with the most impressive ones located in the Mol valley. One notable tower, known as the Mahi in Qalandar Jo Muqam, was likely erected to honour a hero who died while retrieving cattle from thieves or in another act of bravery. Unfortunately, the upper part of the Mahi has been damaged.
To the east of the exquisitely carved grave in the cemetery of Qalandar, there are four stone-carved graves that have been vandalised. Only one of these graves remains standing, although it is in a dilapidated condition
Stone-carved graves are located to the south of the commemorative tower. Just near the commemorative tower is a 20th-century stone-carved grave. This grave features a double platform. The lower plinth is plain, while the upper one is adorned with decorative slabs and small corner posts. The gravestone rests on a decorative slab showcasing geometric designs.
Three graves are noted for their height in the necropolis, drawing visitors' attention. One of the cenotaphs showcases an impressive design consisting of three superimposed caskets, each intricately crafted and layered. The structure begins with a lower casket set upon two distinct base slabs. The first slab at the bottom is plain and undecorated, serving as a simple foundation. In contrast, the second slab, which supports the first casket, features decorative elements that add an aesthetic appeal to the overall appearance of the cenotaph.
The first casket itself is a masterpiece of craftsmanship. Its entire surface is adorned by a rich tapestry of geometric patterns and a series of rosettes that project from the surface, creating an eye-catching display. Each design reflects the artistry and cultural significance associated with the burial traditions of the time. Moving upwards, the second casket displays a variety of geometric patterns, each reflecting the grandeur of the cenotaph. The third casket is particularly striking, as it is embellished with four decorative slabs designed to support the gravestone, enhancing the visual impact of the cenotaph.
Notably, the top slab of the third casket juts out from the northern and southern sides. These protruding slabs may have been used for decorative purposes. Currently, the gravestone associated with this cenotaph is missing. The Cenotaph is intricately carved from the lower section to the top, demonstrating exceptional skill in stone carving.
Similar patterns can be observed in various stone-carved graves found in the necropolises of Jam Lohar at Taung and Sumbak Sawai near Thano Ahmad Khan. Identical designs can also be seen on a stone-carved grave located west of the Baran Hill stream along Kohtrash-Taung Road. Additionally, outside of the Thano Bula Khan taluka, there are several cemeteries in the Malir and Thatta districts where similar patterns can be found.
To the east of the exquisitely carved grave in the cemetery of Qalandar, there are four other stone-carved graves that have been vandalised. Only one of these graves remains standing, although it is in a dilapidated condition. This grave consists of a single casket structure supported by two plain base slabs. Five decorative slabs are placed over the casket to form the gravestone, which is now missing. The decoration on this grave features rosettes and geometric patterns. Nearby, three other stone graves have been vandalised by treasure hunters. These vandalised graves' decorative slabs and gravestones lie scattered on the ground. These graves are located south of the Mahi (memorial/commemorative tower) and the grave of Qalandar.
To the south of the vandalised graves, there is another stone-carved grave. This grave features a two-level structure with protruding slabs. It consists of a double-casket grave set atop three base slabs, with additional slabs extending over the second casket. The first casket is adorned with rosettes and geometric designs. The second casket showcases various geometric patterns and a pair of rosettes on the northern and southern side slabs. Over the second casket, jutting slabs have been placed. The gravestone, which has fallen, was originally set over four decorative slabs and now lies nearby. This gravestone is divided into three sections for ornamental purposes. The first section features rosettes, the second showcases geometric patterns, and the third depicts an array of weapons, including a sword, shield, gun, dagger, and knuckles. A variety of weaponry representations can also be found on the gravestones of several other graves in the Jam Lohar graveyard in Thano Bula Khan. This double-level structure dates back to the second quarter of the nineteenth century.
Just a little further south, there is a single-chamber plain stone grave. The casket rests on a simple base slab. The gravestone, which has fallen and lies near the grave, was initially supported by six plain slabs. Similar simple single—or double-casket graves can be found in several graveyards in Thano Bula Khan.