Creative Karachi

With a little help from its resilient friends Karachi has shown time and again that it is still Pakistan’s leading cultural light. By Mohsin Sayeed

Creative Karachi
Karachi’s creative community is simply amazing. Sounds clichéd but irrefutable. Looking at the daily violence, gang wars, terrorism and almost a complete breakdown of law and order and governance in Karachi, it is unimaginable that the city not only continues to moves on but also lives…to die another day. And till it lives, it makes sure it remains vibrant. Be it a literary festival, film festival, art festival, food festival or fashion week, Karachi has always taken the lead, and then the rest of the country follows. The secret behind this hope and resilience is nothing but defiant Karachiites who want to live life to the fullest.

Manifesting the same Karachiite spirit, Sabeen Mahmud— brains, the backbone the driving force behind The Second Floor (T2F), the city’s dynamic, and only hub for alleviation of intellectual poverty— added yet another feather to the its cap: The Creative Karachi Festival (CKF). It was a weekend of celebrating Karachi’s creative community and their talent featuring music performances, qawaali, dramatic readings, art, photography, design, crafts, dance, stargazing, and a host of interactive activities.

The DWL team
The DWL team


It all began with a crowd-funding campaign for T2F launched in the first week of September 2014. Right after the launch artists began calling Sabeen offering their performances. The first event was Usman Riaz’s performance followed by Zinda Bhaag’s screening and conversation with the filmmakers. Sabeen talked about her dreaming habit that led the campaign to become a full blown festival in just two months. “We did not know what the venue would be; where the funds to organize would come from…all we knew was that we had a fabulous team and we wanted to do it. We did not cut any corners, did not want to compromise on any aspect from design to execution,” says Sabeen.

In the true meaning of the old adage ‘where there’s a will, there’s a way’, Seemi Khan and Saira Sultan from Karachi Accueil Society (a group of French-speaking women) came on board and brought along Alliance Francaise (AF) as the venue for the festival. And history was created. Karachi’s calendar witnessed the birth of another festival, another form of celebration of this city’s undying spirit.

The Alliance De Francoise grounds decked up for the festival
The Alliance De Francoise grounds decked up for the festival


Although, loud music, eager faces and heavy traffic welcomed participants much before the venue in an otherwise quiet, leafy lane in Clifton, the vibrancy and riot of colours upon entering the Alliance garden still pleasantly surprised me. I am sure it was because of the lively, boisterous environment that I didn’t mind children who almost outnumbered the adults, busily running around, painting, giggling and playing.

Laila Odho-Preji had shifted her Saturday Art Studio to the lawns of AF, teaching children to create hand-made crafts and painting. The idea was to set up an informal pop-up art corner for children to be creative and have fun. “This was our way to support the great efforts of T2F, and we are very proud of being a part of CKF,” said Laila. The response from joyous children and their happy parents was simply fantastic. “Children thoroughly enjoyed art activities like making masks and hand puppets and kept coming for more.”

Sabeen Mahmud, the force behind the festival
Sabeen Mahmud, the force behind the festival

I spotted Sabeen cleaning tables in the food court and clearing trash bins with her staff

Next to her was Sabeen’s favourite art form kiosk: truck art. In a  marigold-strung canopy sat two artists painting away items with Pakistan’s famous truck art. Car number plates, dishes, plaques and other items in bright colours were scattered as people got their demands painted. Sabeen seemed very pleased with herself with an old-style Karachi car number plate in blue and white saying ‘Tu mera hero hai’. She was on a mini break from supervising. But she is not the one who only shouts orders, she gets involved wherever she deems necessary. I spotted her cleaning tables in the food court and clearing trash bins with her staff.

In a corner, wearing a masked graffiti, Abdullah, who goes by the artistic alias Sanki, was busy spray-painting a huge mural in bright colours. After every few minutes he would step back, take a critical look at the canvass, wait as if an epiphany was dawning on him and then start painting again. I was very curious to see the finished work so I moved on to come back later.

Adnan Jaffer entertained the crowd with Patras
Adnan Jaffer entertained the crowd with Patras


The art lane was bustling with artists’ and crafts stalls, artists and buyers. From young new artists to Sunday painters, all were happily busy entertaining buyers or creating. Art works on sale were reasonably priced, some even at throw-away ones. This is a great way to spread art as last year Sabeen had organized an art bazar which was a humongous success. Judging by people’s interest, this time, too, it seemed that it was going to be a hit.

The performance area was reverberating with some band singing songs in English and youngsters enjoying the music. Going towards the performance arena, I caught Sikandar Mufti with a pretty girl on my camera phone. Sikandar laughingly introduced me to her: “My wife.” Since I was way too old for the scene, I felt like a dinosaur. The backdrop, though, captivated my attention. On one side the names of all organisers, participants, performers, helpers and patrons were written with a heart in the centre and on the other a big colourful moped was drawn. But I moved out as the sound was too loud for my sensitive ears.

Uzair Akram's performance art
Uzair Akram's performance art

The best part of the CKF was attention to detail

The best part of the CKF was attention to detail. The food court had tables covered with beautiful flowery picnic table cloth, flowers bloomed and the hedges were adorned with ferry lights, buntings and various decoration crafted from paper.

Lawyer Danish was sitting on a bench babysitting her daughter while Khadija Salahuddin and Amneh Farooq were tending to their daughters. Khadija’s lipstick shone bright even in such a colourful ambience. Amy Haq and Shahla Ali Khan were drinking in the flowery, vivacious splendour of the environment while chatting with a friend. Apart from selling tempting, attractive food items, food stalls were also tastefully decorated. Master Chef Pakistan participant Rayan Durrani was busy making churrios which seemed to have gained instant popularity among guests. Syed sisters, Faria and Hala, were selling cookies and cupcakes among many others selling goodies. Karachi’s famous khao suey joint Simple Dimple also had a kiosk and was as usual busy dolling out dollops of the delicious dish. All credit for the hit venture goes to Raania Durrani.

Syed sisters with their wares
Syed sisters with their wares


Structures made with threads and rubber bands
Structures made with threads and rubber bands

I just don't get the concept of performance art

Another lawn was surrounded by stalls of various items like cushions, boxes, decorative items and jewellery. Dressed as a tree with a screen taped on his belly, Uzair was presenting his performance art piece. I hurriedly moved on as I just don’t get the concept of performance art. For me it is either visual art or performing art but just can’t wrap my head around the idea of performance art. Sounds like video installation. I ran and took refuge in the café. Shamira of Marigold & Honey, Raania and Muneeza Saani of FM89 fame looked chic managing the bright and cheerful café serving coffee, tea, chilled drinks, sandwiches and other edibles.
He was reading Patras Bukhari's stories and the audience sitting on the grass was laughing periodically

The courtyard of AF was buzzing with Adnan Jaffer’s baritone voice. He was reading Patras Bukhari’s stories and the audience sitting on the grass was laughing periodically. I spotted Ayla Raza sitting on one side and on the other educationalist Mahnaz Mahmud and Seema Malik were enjoying the story-telling session.

The first floor had film screenings. Nuzhat Kidvai was looking for the room that was holding screening of Salman Abedin’s film.

Outside on the rooftop, the solar telescope was attracting people in hordes. Shaha Jamshed was bending down, looking into the telescope and all I heard was ‘stunning, beautiful’. Young fathers were showing the glorious sun to their children. By the time my turn came in the long queue, the sun had gone down Karachi’s high-rise covered horizon so I could not see anything. The organisers asked me to come back for star gazing once the dusk had fallen.

After the sunset the whole arena glowed with ferry lights with arc lights washing away the scene. Sanki had completed his large mural. It screamed the central idea of the festival in bright oranges and greens: Creativity. Sami sons’ powerful and trance-creating voices filled the air with ‘Bharo ghee ke diye’ and cast a spell on the listeners.

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Two days of fun, frolic, creativity and talent brought lots of joy and happiness and colour to the lives of hundreds of Karachiites by a few dedicated denizens. The organisers did not restrict entry to any particular kind or groups. From families to stags to single females, to even young adults, roamed the festival and nothing untoward happened. Team T2F always prefers inclusivity and their events are as egalitarian as they can get. This just proves that if provided the opportunity and spaces, people do behave well as everyone wants to have a bit of fun. In fact, festivals in Karachi are not elitist as they welcome people from all walks of life and usually remain successful. Do we need another proof in support of Karachiites’s desperate desire for peace and happiness in their city?

I wish to live long enough to see a time in my city when there are festivals all around the year, all over town where millions can enjoy life freely without any fear or inhibition. Karachiites like Sabeen Mahmood give me hope for that day.