In almost every district of Sindh there are many heritage sites that we are losing day by day. Needless to say, this is a loss that can never be recovered from.
Located 3 km east of Baqir Nizamani village in Tando Muhammad Khan district is such a cultural heritage site – one which is a marker of identity for both the owners of the monuments, the Talpurs, and the local community that lives nearby. This heritage site, locally known as Pir Aman Shah graveyard, is quite simply a victim of negligence by the authorities concerned. This necropolis contains the marble and stone-carved graves, canopies and domed structures of the Manikani Talpurs, mostly from the 19th and 20th centuries.
The Manikani Talpurs trace their ancestry back to Manik Khan Talpur, whose tomb is located in the necropolis of Mir Allahyar at Drigh Bala in Johi, Dadu. Mir Manik Khan Talpur was a disciple of Mian Nasir Muhammad Kalhoro (1657-1692) who gave him a jagir around the present village of Drigh Bala, where today his tomb stands despite the vagaries of weather. Mir Manik Khan Talpur had four sons Mir Allahyar, Mir Tharo Khan, Mir Jeevan and Mir Saind Khan - all of whom served the Kalhoras. Mir Allahyar, who largely served Mian Yar Muhammad Kalhoro (1700-1718) and later Mian Noor Muhammad Kalhoro (1719-1753), died in 1734 and was buried in an imposing tomb at Drigh Bala. He was survived by three sons Mir Masu, Mir Jado and Mir Rajo.
Stone canopy of a Talpur noble covered by tree branches
There are five prominent graveyards of the Manikani Talpurs in Sindh: ‘Mir Allahyar Ja Quba’ at Drigh Bala in Johi, Dadu; ‘Chitori’ in Mirpurkhas, “Mir Mirzo” and “Ketyun” in Badin district, and Pir Aman Shah near Baqir Nizamani in the district of Tando Muhammad Khan.
The Pir Aman Shah graveyard contains the stone carved graves, canopies and domed structures of the descendants of Mir Masu (died in 1166 AH/1753 AD), Mir Jado (died in 1773 AH/ 1760 AD) and Mir Rajo (died in 1209 AH/1795 AD) who were sons of Mir Allahyar Talpur. All three sons of Mir Allahyar Talpur are buried in impressive stone structures at Chitori cemetery while their sons, grandsons and great grandsons are buried in the Pir Aman Shah graveyard. This graveyard is known in the district of Tando Muhammad Khan for its lavishly carved graves. It is named after Pir Aman Shah, who was believed to have fought in the famed battle of Miani in 1843 against British colonial forces. The tomb of Miyon Aman Shah also contains the grave of Pir Amin Shah, who also took part in the battle of Miani. Both belonged to a Syed family and are now venerated by the local community as Pirs (saints).
Dilapidated tomb of Mir Peroz Khan Talpur in Pir Aman Shah necropolis
The most imposing tomb in the necropolis is that of Mir Peroz Khan, son of Mir Jado Khan, which lies in a pathetic condition. It is a square structure containing three stone-carved graves. The prominent grave in the tomb belongs to Mir Peroz Khan Talpur. There is an impressive stone railing around the grave of Mir Peroz Khan similar to those seen in the Chitori graveyard. The dome of Mir Peroz Khan Talpur’s tomb has caved in and vegetation has grown all over the walls. Even access to the main entrance to the tomb is blocked by thorny plants and bushes. The stone-carved grave of Mir Peroz Khan Talpur is unfortunately hidden behind these full-grown thorny plants and bushes. Apart from the tomb of Mir Peroz Khan Talpur, there is a neglected twelve-pillared stone canopy which also belongs to a Mankani Talpur noble. The nearby tree’s branches have entirely covered the stone canopy. Only the westernmost pillars are visible. To the south of this canopy is the stone grave of Mir Khan Muhammad Khan Talpur, who was a son of Mir Ghulam Ali Khan, the founder of Tando Ghulam Ali town in Badin district. It is highly engraved stone cenotaph which exists on a double platform. It is one of the most fabulous pieces of art and has no parallel in the whole Tando Muhammad Khan district. In 1845, Mir Khan Muhammad Khan Talpur was also believed to have helped the British against the Khalsa Sikhs in a military expedition. He was the chief of the Manikani Talpurs of Sindh, a chieftaincy which was also accepted by the British. He died in 1872 and was succeeded by his son Mir Ghulam Ali II as the new Jagirdar of the Mankanis who was also buried in the necropolis of Pir Aman Shah. Close to the stone-carved grave of Mir Ghulam Ali II are two richly carved graves of his sons Mir Imam Bakhsh Khan Talpur and Mir Allah Bakhsh Khan Talpur.
The stone-carved graves of Mir Khan Muhammad Khan Talpur’s brothers Mir Budha Khan Talpur and Mir Fateh Khan Talpur are also located in the necropolis of Pir Aman Shah. The lavishly carved marble grave of Mir Budha Khan Talpur is located to the west of the stone carved grave of Mir Khan Muhammad Khan. It is inscribed with Quarnic verses engraved on the sides of the upper slab. According to inscription on the grave Mir Budha Khan Talpur died in 1280 AH/1863. Apart from the stone-carved grave of Mir Budha Khan Talpur, the necropolis also contains many unidentified graves and remnants of tombs of Manikani Talpurs. Due to a lack of proper maintenance of the graveyard, the fabulous graves of Talpur nobles are victims of neglect - not only by the descendants but also by the authorities concerned, who do not take serious efforts to protect this fast crumbling heritage.
This heritage is no longer merely the identity of the original builders. It transcends the local to become a provincial heritage due to its regional, cultural and historic significance
This heritage is no longer merely the identity of the original builders. It transcends the local to become a provincial heritage due to its regional, cultural and historic significance. Ideally, it can be preserved to promote cultural tourism in the region, which will bring multiple benefits to the local community. The department of Culture, Tourism and Antiquities, Government of Sindh, should take serious efforts in this regard to promote this necropolis as a potential tourist site. In fact, there are many other sites in the district which can be labeled “Tourist Clusters” and offered as packages to visitors.
The author is an anthropologist and has authored four books: ‘Symbols in Stone: The Rock Art of Sindh’, ‘Perspectives on the art and architecture of Sindh’, ‘Memorial Stones: Tharparkar’ and ‘Archaeology, Religion and Art in Sindh’. He may be contacted at: zulfi04@hotmail.com
