There are many historic sites in Potohar which still escape the attention of international and national tourists. One such place which has great potential for tourism is Kot Fateh Khan, a village whose landscape is dotted with Muslim and Sikh monuments of the British period. This historic village, in Fateh Jang tehsil of Attock, can attract tourists if the concerned authorities are serious in promoting tourism in the country. The popular identity of Kot Fateh Khan village comes from a syncretic Sikh shrine of Baba Than Singh, also venerated by the Muslims as ‘Sultan’.
The village is host to both Muslim and Sikh monuments - which include the Sikh Samadhis and gurdwara and Muslim mosque, havelis and bridge. A majority of Muslim monuments are believed to have been built by Sardar Fateh Khan, after whom the village is named. Sardar Fateh Khan was, in fact, a notable chief of Attock (formerly known as Campbellpur) during the British period.
Lord Krishana is depicted upholding the Govardhan Hill to shelter his devotees
He built not only the bridge and havelis but also a splendid three-domed mosque which still breaks the village skylines. It is a rectangular structure flanked by two minarets, one of which was rebuilt after its collapse in 1930 by Sardar Nawaz Khan. It is believed that Sardar Fateh Khan brought the masons from Attock to build the mosque. This was because at that time, Attock was the main centre of local arts and crafts. The masons of Attock were famous for building grand structures. Their style is reflected in the innovations which they introduced in their work, the best specimen being the magnificent and grand Khem Sindh Bedi Haveli at Kallar Syedan.
The novel additions introduced by the Attock artisans in Kot Fateh Khan Mosque are the miniature jharokas. Such innovations by Attock artisans also mark other architecture of the region. They were not only great builders of mosques and havelis but also of temples and gurdwaras. Some of the temples, havelis and gurdwaras built by Attock artists are located in Beval, Hazro, Kot Fateh Khan, Gujar Khan, Kallar Syedan etc.
Defaced paintimg depicting Baba Guru Nanak with his companions Bala and Mardan in the Samadhi at Kot Fateh Khan
The distinctive feature of the Kot Fateh Khan mosque is the painting work. From inside it is adorned with paintings and from outside with stucco work. The main gate of the mosque is decorated with miniature jharokas, which lends beauty to the entrance. The facade of the mosque is also decorated with false miniature jharokas. Three archways lead to the main hall of the mosque.
In addition to the three-domed mosque, Kot Fateh Khan also boasts Sikh buildings of the British period. Three Sikh buildings gurdwara and two Samadhis are located to west of village. Kot Fateh Khan village was an important site for the Sikh community due to the Samadhi of Baba Than Singh, who was known for his piety. The Sikh community used to gather in the fair of Baba Than Singh in the month of Baisakh (April-May). According to the district Rawalpindi Gazetteer, 4,000 people attended the fair in 1893. The Samadhi of Than Singh is an impressive double-storey building superimposed with a canopy. The Samadhi has three openings on its east, south and west. The northern wall is partially closed by the wall of the gurdwara. The main archway, which opens to the east, is made of white marble. The cusped archway is remarkable for its superb spandrel decorations. The inner sanctum, where the Samadhi of Than Singh is located, has a carved door flanked by inscriptions in Gurmukhi on either sides. The door of Samadhi is decorated with marble slabs carrying the names of the donors – along with the donated amounts.
Two Sikh nobles in conversation
Today, the Muslim community of the village also venerates Than Singh and calls him Baba Thana and Sultan. They visit the Samadhi and seek the blessings of the Sikh saint. This indicates the syncretic nature of the shrine – and the dual identity of the saint.
Adjacent to the Samadhi is the building of the gurdwara. The distinctive features of the gurdwara are the stucco decoration and the wooden railing with spectacular wooden brackets. But unfortunately, this building lies in a crumbling condition. The portico of the gurdwara opens to the south.
To the east of the Samadhi of Than Singh is an anonymous octagonal Samadhi noted for its paintings representing Hindu and Sikh beliefs. The panels are painted with pictures of various Hindu gods, Sikh gurus and rulers. The ceiling of the gurdwara is decorated with sacred ring dance of Lord Krishna with gopis. There are three paintings depicting Krishna. In one of the paintings Krishna is shown lifting the Govardhan Hill to shelter his devotees from the storm of the god Indra. The image of Indra with his elephant mount(vihana) Airavata is also depicted on the right side of the panel. One does not find such depictions elsewhere in the Potohar region.
The northern wall of the Samadhi depicts Lord Vishnu, who appears to be reclining on the Ananta (serpent). This manifestation of Vishnu is called Anantashyana. In popular narrations, Vishnu is described as lying in deep trance before the dawn of creation. He is shown sleeping on the coils of the Cobra Ananta or Sheesha. From the navel of Vishnu springs a lotus on the top of which is seated the god Brahma - who then created world. This painting can also be seen in number of other temples and Samdhis in Potohar.
In one of the panels, one finds a painting of Baba Guru Nanak (1469- 1539) with his companions Bhai Bala (d.1544) and Bhai Mardana (d.1534). Two other figures are also shown in this painting. Apart from the painting of Baba Guru Nanak, a painting of Guru Gobind Singh (1666- 1708) is made on the northern wall of the Samadhi. He is depicted with his Khalsa soldiers. Close to this is another depiction, which shows Ranjeet Singh (1780-1839) and the courtesans. One finds an inscription in Gurmukhi before each of the figures in the Samadhi - thus making it easy to identify the images.
The historic village of Fateh Jang tehsil has great potential for tourism. The authorities concerned should chalk out a viable strategy to promote tourism in the area. The village is certain to attract both the international and national tourists. The Sikh tourists who visit Gurdwara Panja Sahib at Hasan Abdal should also be guided and furnished with information about the historic monuments of Kot Fateh Khan.
The author is an anthropologist and has authored four books: ‘Symbols in Stone: The Rock Art of Sindh’, ‘Perspectives on the art and architecture of Sindh’, ‘Memorial Stones: Tharparkar’ and ‘Archaeology, Religion and Art in Sindh’. He may be contacted at: zulfi04@hotmail.com
